The 7 Style Essences Explained

Style essences are essentially the harmonious reflection of your inner and outer self and your style lines.  They seek to bridge the gap between your body and your clothing lines.  They take into consideration your “vibe” and how you come across to the world but are not boiled down to a personality trait.

So just because you’re a super sweet person doesn’t mean you can’t have a dramatic essence.  

Let’s get into the details of this. 

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Where did style essences come from? 

The most prolific example of style archetypes came from David Kibbe in the 1980s with his book “Metamorphosis”.  They included 5 main families:

• Dramatic
• Natural
• Classic
• Gamine
• Romantic

The wildly popular Kibbe System is composed of 10 different IDs that fit into 5 main styles families.

However, Kibbe was not the first to delve into the concept of melding your body’s most authentic traits and shapes and harmonizing them with what you wear.  

Belle Northrop first proposed this general concept in 1936 in her article ” Approach to the Problem of Costume and Personality”. She postures that “all aspects of personality and every detail of appearance, woven into an integrated whole, must be taken into account” and that some of these traits are “felt” rather than easily explained. She went further to address newly defined terminology to describe these balance shifts under the “yin” “yang” verbiage.

Now her idea was a bit more conceptual and it wasn’t until Harriet McJImsey laid out archetypes to match the yin/yang balance of each that these style systems really started to take shape.

In her book, McJimsey followed on with the yin/yang balance and started to map out different physical traits for each that would apply to 6 main archetypes: Dramatic, Athletic, Classic, Romantic, Gamine, and Ingenue. McJimsey believed you could be a composite of types.

From McJimsy evolved Kitchener’s style essences (originally created by Joan Songer), and included an important 7th essence; The Angelic also known as the Ethereal.

Kitchener and Kibbe were both producing these systems during the late 1980s. David Kibbe with his book Metamorphosis which came out in 1987, and Kitchener with his Personal Style Consultants (originally founded by Joan Songer).

Kibbe felt ingenue had no place in a system with grown adults so he “eliminated” it and created his own variations of the style archetypes McJimsy had laid out. He also tweaked where the romantics and gamines fell onto the yin/yang spectrum. However, one could argue that the Soft Gamine Kibbe ID has some correlation to the ingenue essence.

Kitchener, while viewing the progression of fashion lines like Romeo Gigli and style icons like Darryl Hannah, he proceeded to add the integral style essence of “angelic”. This addition plus his insistence that “ingenue” remain a part ultimately rounded out the identity system itself to be more inclusive.

Quick Recap on Yin/Yang 

The yin and yang were originally and authentically part of the Daoist principles to explain how “ obviously opposite or contrary forces may actually be complementary, interconnected, and interdependent in the natural world, and how they may give rise to each other as they interrelate to one another”. (source)

They have long since been appropriated by the western world and in the case of body typing and harmonizing style lines represent two distinct concepts. 

Yang: sharp, angular, straight, long

Yin: Soft, rounded, gentle, short

We could apply other adjectives to these words as well, but I find it to best be described simply so as not to further confuse or bias your understanding. 

It is important to note that often yang is described as “masculine”, and yin as “feminine”.  This is completely incorrect and only further biases your views of the IDs and essences.  This generalization is probably why EVERYONE wants to type themselves as a romantic or theatrical romantic.  

So why do style essences matter? 

Style essences are a great way to guide yourself toward your most well-rounded image. Once you know your essence, it will provide insight into how people see you and how to exude your most natural, authentic, and beautiful self. 

Style essences can be a useful tool in exploring your personal style and the vibe you give off to the world.

The Kibbe system also uses style essences, but they have essentially been “pre-selected” for you through your singular Kibbe ID. For instance, a Flamboyant Natural would have a natural dominant essence and a dramatic essence undercurrent.

Kibbe really wanted YOU to shine and he aimed at simplifying a trend-obsessed culture, finding your unique beauty, and embracing those traits.

While it is technically a different system, John Kitchener also uses a yin/yang system to identify your blend of style essences. He focuses heavily on color contrast and you can technically be a blend of all 7 essences (although this is thought to be more rare).

  In today’s culture, fast fashion and chasing trends are prevalent. I am all about trends and love them, but I think most people are going about their personal style in the wrong manner.  They consume pieces, try them on, and then don’t actually like them enough to integrate them into their wardrobe permanently, so the cycle repeats itself a month or two later. 

This is only made easier by the cheap and accessible fast-fashion empire. 

And I’m not criticizing people who buy fast fashion ( I’ve done it myself!), but I’d be remiss not to mention that this is hindering your personal style.  It’s like being on a constant treadmill without ever gaining any endurance.  

And this is where Kibbe and Kitchener can offer some insight.

Style Essences: Kibbe versus Kitchener Exploration

Sometimes people feel boxed in by Kibbe’s system. However, I think that isn’t the true base of his system. He aims to have the true you shine, and for you to embrace the person you’ve always dreamed of.

I will say that the “boxed in” feeling I think is largely due to an over-emphasis on the original text style lines which is not necessarily in line with what Kibbe says today. Today he insists that clothes do not have an ID and really any ID can wear any piece of clothing, it is about crafting the “full look” to harmonize with your body ID.  I have a video about this here.

However, none of these systems are “perfect” and some people may find Kitchener more intuitive, while others may find Kibbe more helpful. They both use yin/yang, however, they can look at those qualities from a different lens and a different set of characteristics. Let’s go over some of these differences.

Now, both Beyonce and Marilyn Monroe have been verified as Romantics in Kibbe. In Kitchener, Marilyn Monroe is said to have a 50/50 romantic/ingenue essence. Now, as far as I know, Beyonce has not been Kitchener verified (so this is my opinion!), but I believe she has a Dramatic/Romantic split. We can see there is more intensity in Beyonce’s face and she can pull off some stronger looks than Marilyn.

Another example would be Julia Roberts. She has been verified by Kibbe as Flamboyant Natural, and in Kitchener’s system as having a Romantic/Natural essence.

How do I find my essence? 

Essences do have general parameters to compare to but because you are a blend, there are less stringent rules and some traits may not line up with every characteristic. Kibbe has Nicole Kidman as Flamboyant Natural because of her height and width, but Kitchener has her as a Classic with Ingenue.

So while physical traits are certainly important, they can be interpreted differently based on your blend.

Here’s an example of Physical yin/yang:

Zendaya is long, angular, and basically all yang as an unverified pure Dramatic ( some believe she is Flamboyant Natural- but either way yang leaning). Whereas Marilyn Monroe physically is pure yin as a Romantic.

Here’s an example of Essence yin/yang:

The essence yang is sharper, cooler, and a bit more unapproachable. The essence yin is warm, friendly, and inviting.

The 7 Style Essences

Kitchener himself likes to view the yin/yang system as a circle instead of a linear method, which you can see here:

Dramatic Style Essence

The Dramatic Essence is defined as the most yang and theatrical essence.

Its hallmark traits are angular features (sometimes, not always), intensity, extroverted sensibility, and a love of fashion. They seem to never be afraid to try new, bold styles.

Cher is a great example of a dramatic essence. She has a bold presence with over-the-top fashion styles and always masters them with confidence.

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A Dramatic essence works best with bold designs, asymmetry, animal prints, and an over-extension of the line (pieces that veer away from the body). They can handle bold textures like the rhinestone mesh Cher is wearing above. And they also do well with structured menswear.

Here we can see a dramatic/romantic essence combo. While her hair and the silhouette of the dress are slightly more romantic in nature, the leather strap details, makeup, and long flared silhouette harmonize with a dramatic essence.

Full deep dive into the dramatic essence below:

Gamine Style Essence

In Kitchener system, the gamines are referred to as Playfully Dramatic with Yang Essence. This is a slight variation from Kibbe who puts Gamines more in the combo yin/yang spectrum.

They are described as “high-spirited” with a pixie nature.

Both Kitchener and Kibbe reference Liza Minelli as a hallmark gamine. And their physical traits are listed similarly. They describe the gamine as petite with compact bodies, captivating eyes, and a slightly “boyish” look.

They tend to have energetic, whimsical energy to them. They also can easily adopt fashion trends or play with fashion looks. It is second nature to them.

For style, they often embrace irreverent colors with pattern mixes, menswear influences, and whimsical accessories.

Natural Style Essence

The Natural Essence is described as the casual yang essence.

It is described as a casual and sportive look.

Physically they often have some broad features and a strong shoulder line. Kitchener describes them as less interested in fashion and they often choose function and comfort over style.

However, I think this is a grave generalization and understanding of the natural essence. Natural style lines were at one point-yes- just functional. However, in the 70’s the fashion industry adopted the natural “style lines” and morphed them into what we know today as effortless, easy-going, and “natural”. (source)

So while some naturals may prefer to have functional pieces, and simple layering in their styles, I think that doesn’t cover the true natural essence of today’s culture.

I think today it includes natural textures, fibers, abstract shapes, free-flowing hair, and a general reference to mother earth.

Here we can even see a natural essence with a touch of classic essence as well. While some of the pieces she’s wearing have more tailored lines and classic styling techniques, her accessories, hair, and overall vibe are definitely natural.

Classic Style Essence

The Classic Essence is balanced yin and yang.

They have an elegant feel with even features and often exude timeless style. At times they can even appear a bit more conservative in their style.

Kitchener mentions Nicole Kidman as a celebrity example with a classic essence. While Kibbe has Nicole Kidman as a Flamboyant Natural. So here you can see the importance of considering your essence.

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Physically, Nicole Kidman meets all the requirements of the Flamboyant Natural with verticality, width, and blunt yang being her physical profile. However, her overall aesthetic is more polished and timeless than free-flowing. We can see her opt for flowing dresses or relaxed hairstyles on occasion, but most of her style influence is classic in nature.  

The Classic essence will choose timeless pieces with slight construction and shape to them. Pieces that are moderate, balanced, and look put together.

Full Classic Essence deep dive:

Romantic Style Essence

The Romantic Essence has a sensual deep yin essence.

Here is another example of where Kitchener deviates from Kibbe with his essence theory. His celebrity example of romantic essence is Julia Roberts, who Kibbe has verified to be a Flamboyant Natural.

While Julia Roberts certainly does have some natural essence to her and fits the FN description very well, we can’t negate her romantic essence and how well she looks with romantic influences to her look.

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I also relate to this pairing because while I am also a Flamboyant Natural, I have about a 30% romantic essence. This allows me to pull off slightly more intricate details, textures, and even some romantic style lines. A reader mentioned that Flamboyant Naturals can readily pull off slip dresses and that wasn’t an indicator of the romantic essence. However, FNs commonly wear longer, looser slip dresses with far fewer dainty details. The below slip dress is cut for curve- meaning it shapes in at the waist and hugs the hips, plus the very dainty straps, and the bust cups with lace, this slip dress leans much more Romantic or Ingenue Essence than it does a traditional Kibbe FN slip dress.

The Romantic Essence is all about indulgent fashion, and expensive-looking accessories. They look fantastic in luxurious silk textures and fabrics that hug the body.

Physically they can have curvaceous figures and alluring eyes.

Here’s my deep dive into the romantic essence if you want more information:

Youthful/Ingenue Style Essence

The Ingenue Essence is a small-scale yin essence.

Prime celebrity examples include Emma Stone and Marilyn Monroe (she also has romantic essence).  

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The ingenue essence has a youthful appearance. They are often described as delicate with rounded features and bone structure, wide-apart eyes. 

Their style includes decorative florals, frills, ruffles, and vintage-inspired pieces. They can also wear small-scale florals, puffed sleeves, lace bows, and small or youthful elements to their overall look.

Check out my deep dive into the ingenue essence here:

Angelic Style Essence

The Angelic Essence is the most yin and ethereal essence.

According to Kitchener, the Angelic (also known as the ethereal) essence is the most yin essence. They can have a softer appearance (though not always) and can look like they belong from another age. They can also have a tall, waif-life appearance, and sometimes an oval-shaped face.

They appear almost magical in their essence, like a fairy, mermaid, or goddess.

In Kibbe, Tilda Swinton is pure dramatic because she is yang dominant. However, she has an ethereal essence because she exudes an other-worldly vibe. You can see her fuse both the Kibbe dramatic style lines and her ethereal essence style at different red carpet events.

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People with ethereal essences wear a lot of fine textures and draped pieces that almost look like they are floating or have movement. Web-shaped designs, sumptuous textures, and ornate details are common.

This is one of the harder essences to pin down and is especially hard to integrate into your everyday style. If you feel you have an ethereal essence start by adding small ethereal details like luxurious fabric choices and draping to your outfits.

For a complete deep dive on how to dress with an angelic/ethereal essence, check out my video:

How to Determine Your Style Essence

If you want to have your essences professionally typed and get your “exact” percentages, John Kitchener offers online analysis here. 

With Kitchener’s system, your body structure and other features are analyzed and given a percentage form to help you balance out your full look. These percentages can then be applied to your style by using them as guidelines for your head-to-toe look. 

For instance, while my Kibbe ID is a Flamboyant Natural- My essence would be romantic, dramatic, and natural. While I have not had my essences personally defined by John, I would guestimate the percentages to be as follows: 35% natural, 35% romantic, 30% dramatic. I am a Flamboyant Natural in the Kibbe system and often look best with relaxed, effortless hair and pieces that honor my vertical line. I also look good with pieces that have a natural textural quality to them and are not overly confining (overall). However, I play with trends and dramatic silhouettes often, and sometimes embrace intricate details and romantic silhouettes.

Because I have almost equal parts natural, romantic, and dramatic I can usually pull off full looks from each category. However, the more you study your style the more you will learn your essence “boundaries”.

For instance, my hair doesn’t look great unless it’s more natural, and free-flowing. Even when it’s pulled back it needs some softness/volume to it. For my romantic essence, I do well with lace and some seaming but can’t pull off overly voluptuous silhouettes. And my dramatic essence lends me to try more extreme silhouettes and trends.

Using Your Style Essence Combination

According to Kitchener, this is the “general” breakdown of how to use your essence distribution.

10-15% of an essence can be used for accessories 

20-40% of an essence can be used for one garment 

50%+ of an essence can be used for an entire outfit

For more on essences, finding your own balance, and examples, check out this video:

Thoughts on Kitchener’s Essences 

I personally like Kibbe’s description of “natural” more than Kitchener’s because I find Kitchener makes the natural essence sound too perfunctory and a bit too functional. 

If you look at the root of the Natural Style, you’ll see it did evolve in the ’70s with beat and hippie culture, and it surrounds an effortless look.  But because fashion eventually commercialized this “function” it morphed into an effortless, easy-going style that we associate it with today. And I think in today’s fashion and style, we are more aligned with that “natural” definition.  

Because if we look at Kitchener’s definition of “natural”, I would not fit it at all.  If I went solely off Kitchener I would be in the dramatic and romantic essences only.  And honestly, I don’t know how helpful that would be in finding my best overall outfits and style. 

If we are being frank I think the two systems need to work hand in hand.  Kibbe has a more analytical way of looking at your yin/yang balance and which dominant traits you need to take into consideration. 

And Kitchener adds in that extra missing puzzle piece of what clothing pieces and clothing styles harmonize with your exact yin/yang balance and overall vibe.

I have done some Kibbe fashion youtube videos, and often ask people to comment on which outfits they like the best.  Sometimes it’s the flamboyant natural style lines, but I also get an overwhelming amount of people liking the Soft Dramatic or the Theatrical Romantic lines on me as well. Why? Because of my romantic essence.  While I certainly cannot pull off traditional Kibbe Romantic suggestions, I can still pull off a more romantic aesthetic from head to toe using my Kitchener Essence blend and my Kibbe ID for the silhouette.

While I have verticality and “kibbe-width”, I also harmonize with the romantic and dramatic lines and style essences,  which makes those popular choices in my videos. 

The below chart is referencing both Kitchener and McJismey and it goes over the physical and behavioral elements of each essence. It also references a book that Kitchener recommends entitled “Shopping for the Real You”.

Please take the elements from the above chart as a general outline (especially the hair color, skin, and eye color). While color is an extremely fundamental part of Kitchener’s essence system, any skin/hair/color combo can be any essence. It has more to do with your overall contrast level and what else is in your blend. So, color can be a place to start, but pay attention to all the traits and your contrast level.

Controversially, in the overview style essence video, I suggested people use black and white photos to help determine their essence. I feel I did not explain this fully, and I apologize. Coloring is a key factor in essence, and your style. I suggested black and white photos, simply because they can help you see the shapes of your face more clearly, and help determine your vibe with fewer distractions. And traditionally, a lot of casting directors use Black and white photos to get an immediate impression, which I thought would help simplify this. However, for a full essence evaluation, you will need to take some videos, color photographs, and even try on the style lines.

So ultimately, my recommendation is to find your kibbe ID and then explore your Kitchener essence blend. Ask friends to help you pinpoint your essence specifically, as they know you best and can help give an objective opinion.

From there you will not only have a blueprint for what style lines you can harmonize with but also what details and looks from other essence families you can start incorporating into your style.

Your style is your own, and this is the beginning of your personal style recipe.

Now, go find strength through style!

Pin the below image so you can refer back to this article throughout your style essence evolution!