Kibbe: Soft Gamine Style Guide

Soft Gamine:  Combo yin/yang with a yin influence

(Gamine with a romantic undercurrent )

Style ID: Spitfire Chic 

You get sucked down the rabbit hole of your favorite supermodel outfit, and decide why not? I could wear that outfit!  But, you put it on and something just isn’t working.  Maybe the fabric is too heavy?  Or the fit is off?

And then you find the Kibbe System, and it ALL makes sense. 

I’m going to guess that you are either completely new to kibbe, or very far down the rabbit hole that is Kibbe.  No matter where you are, you first need to understand the basis for the yin/yang system and understand each ID’s general accommodations or lines.  This will provide your a base understanding of WHY certain pieces harmonize with your body and make you shine, and why others might just hide your true beauty (ahem that supermodels outfit you tried to take on). 

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If you’ve landed on this page, you’re probably leaning towards a Soft Gamine ID, so let’s discuss. 

Let’s clarify a few misconceptions (because boy, there are a lot of Kibbe misconceptions!).  The Kibbe System is not meant to be a “body typing” system.  In his original book, Metamorphosis,  he presented it as an Image Identity System.  One that takes into account your style essences, your face, and your body (bone structure and flesh). 

This system is not meant to be used in tandem with the fruit body system or traditional body typing options. Those systems aim for everyone to “balance” out their bodies and visually appear more hourglass.  In Kibbe, you embrace and enhance your more dominant traits, and merge your inner and outer essence so that YOU shine. 

So what are the benefits of learning your Kibbe ID?

Well, once you understand your yin/yang balance and can apply it to your full outfits and shopping choices, people will notice the real you first.

Instead of saying “cool shirt”, they will say “ YOU look amazing today”.  It will be about you being seen for your best self. 

Furthermore, it will help you understand why certain silhouettes might work for you, what fabrics make your body look its best, and help you understand the relationship your body has with clothes.  So fewer shopping blunders, and outfit failures. (personally, I don’t view any outfit as a failure, it’s just data to help you hone your style more). 

If all of this is totally new to you, I’d recommend starting with this article which will give you a basic overview. And you might consider buying David’s original book Metamorphosis. While it is outdated, it still has a wonderful overview of his concepts. 

From that book, the Kibbe Body Quiz was created. Can the quiz be helpful today? Yes, absolutely.  Is it a surefire way to find your ID? No.  In fact, most people have trouble taking their own bias out, and understanding Kibbe terminology and end up with a Theatrical Romantic answer. 

David Kibbe recommends self-exploration for your ID be a 6+ month process. It is meant to be a time when you understand the terms, explore your own style currently, appreciate the history of fashion and style icons, and explore your personal essence.  While this commitment of time may seem extensive, it is meant to help you connect and truly understand your style in a meaningful way. 

Now, David Kibbe is currently writing a new book that may eventually change or evolve the interpretation of this system. However, for now, this can be your ultimate Soft Gamine style guide. 

NOTE: Please be aware that while I am referencing his original text for this article, I am also providing my own opinion and interpretations of things.  My background is in fashion design, and styling, and my goal is to help spread the word about Kibbe in a modern and positive way.  If you want to hear Kibbe’s news or his personal opinion only, you should join the Strictly Kibbe Facebook group.  It’s my stance that he created a wonderful system and my goal is to help you understand its benefits, debunk some myths, and modernize some of the styling options.  But remember, I am not David Kibbe (hope that was obvious!), so you are reading my opinions, not his. 

What is the Soft Gamine Kibbe ID? 

The Soft Gamine is one of the original 13 Kibbe IDs and is part of the Gamine Family. It is now a system of only 10 Image Identities.

Here is what the gamine family used to look like:

Now, Kibbe eventually removed “pure natural”, “pure classic”, and “pure gamine” as options to his system, taking it to 10 kibbe types. 

The gamine family is known for having combo yin/yang.  You’ll also hear the term “juxtaposition”, which as far as I know is not an official Kibbe terminology but can be helpful in understanding the yin/yang combination. Think of it as distinctly yang and distinctly yin elements within their bodies. Often times gamines are yin in size because they are smaller.

Here is where the gamine family falls on the yin/yang spectrum:

Now, the Kibbe System was created in the ’80s but continued to have a die-hard fanbase that prompted Kibbe to make his system more “DIY” -able.  He continues to this day to see people for in-person consultations in NYC, and you can get on his waitlist here.  (note, it is an investment!)

But, David Kibbe attempted to make his system more accessible to the DIY-er, by using the term “accommodations”. 

If you asked me to define what he means by “accommodations” I would say… Defining your body’s most dominant traits, and dressing to embrace those traits and outfits that honor your body’s natural lines. 

Now, there is a spectrum to each ID, because each body is unique.  Dramatics are not only emaciated, flat-chested, sharp people.  And gamines are not short tomboys.  

So what do Soft Gamines accommodate?  They accommodate “petite” and “curve”… sometimes have “double curve”, which we will discuss shortly.

If you’re curious to explore David Kibbe’s exact exercises, you can find them in the Start Here group on Facebook (but I believe you must be part of the Strictly Kibbe group, and it can take some time for the Mods to get through your request).  Because I create Kibbe-related content it is a conflict of interest for me to be in the Strictly Kibbe group, so I was removed from it. I respect that decision and endorse people hearing their information straight from the source- ie, David Kibbe. (I also do not, and have never provided any kibbe typing services).

So what do the line sketch and the accommodations of the Soft Gamine mean?

In Kibbe’s exercises, he has you stand in front of a mirror and draw the shapes of your body.  It has morphed into taking a proper ID photo and tracing your body, by the majority of the people talking about Kibbe  (myself included).

Now, DK does NOT agree with this. And states the line sketch is not tracing your body, it’s drawing what you see. So if you’re not an artist, I’m not sure how you’re supposed to accomplish an accurate reflection of your body. But perhaps he means this exercise to be more theoretical and simply to reflect on your body in a less biased way.  Who knows?

That being said, I found the photograph to be a helpful first step, in seeing my own body more objectively.

If you look at my photo below ( I’m a Flamboyant Natural) you can see that I have a long vertical line and “kibbe width”. My frame is fairly dominant.  However, if you choose to do the photo route (not approved by DK), then you must take a proper photo. And to be fair, the photo really helped me see my frame much more accurately- because if you asked my friends they would never have described me in line with the Flamboyant Natural.

A selfie or a group photo does not give an accurate view of your body and its natural lines.

Just look at the above photos that are not taken with proper camera angles and posture. Based on these photos I don’t think we would see my natural frame dominance and my width. 

So, look at your body! It’s the first step!  Now SG accommodates petite and curve.  Let’s discuss what that means in Kibbe.

What is a Petite Accommodation?

I like to view the accommodations as a complicated game of rock/paper/scissors.  Certain traits will trump others and eliminate that as being an option for your accommodations.

For instance, if you have “kibbe width” you cannot have a petite accommodation.  So if you are shorter/have a short vertical line and kibbe width- head on over to the Soft Natural guide. 

The petit accommodation is seen in the Flamboyant Gamine (vertical + petite), Soft Gamine (petite+ curve/double curve), and the theatrical romantic (petite + double curve), generally speaking.  

Just because you are short, does not mean you are automatically a gamine or that you have a petite accommodation. And to be honest, petite is difficult to see in a photo alone.  So, rely on your judgment and own evaluation of your body to confirm this (that is why if you are getting typed, you really should only go to DK himself if you’re not doing it yourself). 

Petite accommodation means your body is small-boned and generally 5ft 5 in and below. It does not mean you shop in the petite section or are just of a small height.

Scarlett Johanson is 5 ft 3 and considered “petite” in colloquial fashion phrasing, but in Kibbe, she is a verified Soft Natural because she has kibbe width. Remember, width “beats” petite (rock, paper, scissors shoot). 

Now, what about “curve” for Soft Gamines?

The data is a bit unclear on this.  Originally it was thought that Soft Gamines accommodate petite and curve and double curve was reserved for the romantic family.  Double curve being upper and lower curve (not waist-hip-ratio).  ( I go over double curve more extensively in the Theatrical Romantic article, if you need more visuals)

However, when examining the resources in the Strictly Kibbe Groups,  David Kibbe says that “curve” (not double curve) can accompany vertical, width, or balance. And double curve can be found accompanying petite. 

By that logic, SGs can have double curve. 

So what is the difference between Soft Gamine and Theatrical Romantic?

Soft Gamines are combination yin/yang with a yin influence.  Theatrical Romantics are soft yin with a slight yang undercurrent. 

However, if someone tells you TRs are sexy women and SGs are little girls- RUN! This is wrong and probably contributes to a lot of people “wanting” to be a TR.  I hate to break it to you, but your body is already an ID, you’re not “choosing” an ID, you’re embracing the ID you have. 

First, let’s go over some of the similarities.  

Soft Gamines and Theatrical Romantics are both:

• appear petite, delicate, and somewhat compact 
• Have dominant yin, but at different degrees 
• can both have an hourglass shape
• shorter vertical line overall 

They also have some similar clothing recommendations because they both accommodate petite.  Tapered pants that show the ankle ( to not overwhelm their smaller frames),  tapered shoes, ruffled or shirring details, etc.  

The differences between Soft Gamine and Theatrical Romantic:

Kibbe actually has a little section on this in Metamorphosis which you can see summarized in my below Venn diagram.

Soft Gamines

• body type has more pronounced curves
• hands and feet are fleshier 
• bone structure is slightly wider
• eyes are big and round
• lips are full
• cheeks are “apple-shaped”

vs.
Theatrical Romantic

• Body type has smaller, narrower curves
• Hands are feet are small/narrow, almost birdlike
• Bone structure is narrow
• Eyes are round but slanted towards the edge
• Lips are round but less full
• Cheekbones are more pronounced

(source, Metamorphosis, page 48). 

So here’s a point where we can “bust” a misconception. Soft Gamines can have pronounced curves, while TRs have more trim, delicate curves. ( I feel like people take the one super curvy TR example- Salma Hayek and assume all TR’s are that level of curvy… this is a mistake!).

I mean if we look at the verified examples, this makes sense. 

So if SG is combination yin/yang with extra yin, then where does their yang show up?

Well, SGs appear wider than TRs who have a more delicate/narrow frame.  But Soft gamines do not have width.  However, they can have some angularity and even a little elongation of limbs. 

The combo yin/yang means not only do they look wider than a TR but they also have some more angularity in their frame.

Theatrical romantics are first and foremost soft yin with only a slight yang undercurrent. 

Does shoulder shape help you identify SG and TR?

My answer is annoying- kind of.  Shoulders are just one element of your body, and the Kibbe system is a holistic approach. 

Generally speaking, Soft Gamines will have delicately angular yet slightly wider shoulders than the theatrical romantic.

 Soft Gamine Versus Other Types

Let’s compare some verified Soft Gamine and see some distinctions.

But what if I’m still unsure? 

Well, this is not a “quick journey”. It’s not a Buzzfeed quiz that sorts you into a Harry Potter House based on 12 easy questions.  It’s an exploration of your style, your body, your essence, and your style expression goals. 

Kibbe has never been about boxing you in, and in recent years he has doubled down on the fact any ID can wear practically any piece of clothing as long as they keep their head-to-toe outfit in mind.  So if you’re really struggling between Soft Gamine and Theatrical Romantic, put the “labels” aside and start exploring the lines.

Typically people get hung up between Soft Gamine and Theatrical Romantic. Both IDs rock silhouettes that are close to the body, and not relaxed/unconstructed (that’s more of a natural vibe). 

Both IDs can pull off small details, lightweight fabrics, and waist definition to honor their smaller features and yin. 

You can start with those elements and explore them.  I recommend taking daily outfit photos or videos and jotting down what you like and dislike about your look.  I have a template to track this data in Canva if you want something more aesthetically pleasing than your camera roll.

Now, if you’ve tried those elements and need a “next step” try integrating the Soft Gamine yang element.  Because SGs have combo yin/yang (they have more yang than the TR), they can add crisper details, high or closed necklines, contrasting trim, and even some crisp round shapes to their clothes. They also lean towards more “crisp curves” through closely tailored pieces. 

But we will get into the Soft Gamine style suggestions shortly. 

Soft Gamine ID Overview

The following information is a general guideline.  If one of your traits “doesn’t fit” that doesn’t mean that you are not a Soft Gamine (provided that trait doesn’t disrupt your yin/yang balance).  If that trait is your height- and you are 5 ft 9 inches- you cannot be a Soft Gamine. Your height would automatically give you vertical and eliminate the possibility of a petite accommodation.  

A quick reminder as well… You are not comparing your body to others to figure out your ID (remember my example above?).  So looking at a verified celebrity is not a way to “find your own ID”. But rather they are just sample data points to see how yin/yang can be distributed among a variety of people. 

Here is a list of verified Soft Gamines Celebrities 

• Betty Davis (prime SG example in the book) 
• Audrey Tatou
• Betty White
• Susan Hayward
• Bridgette Bardot (specified as a “maybe”) 
• Clara Bow
• Cyndi Lauper
• Claudette Colbert
• Earth Kitt
• Debbie Reynolds
• Halle Berry
• Judy Garland 
• Leslie Caron
• Linda Ronstadt
• Mary Kate and Ashley Olson
• Octavia Spencer
• Reese Witherspoon
• Thandiwe Newton
• Victoria Principal
• Winona Ryder 

Please note:  There is a lot of misinformation on Kibbe and verified celebs out there.  I myself have shared my typing opinions on unverified celebs on TikTok, however, I do not claim to be David Kibbe or officially type anyone. Furthermore, celebrities are not really meant to be comparison points.  They are just examples of how yin/yang can be spread within an ID and to show the spectrum within an ID.  Just because you look mildly close to a celeb who is verified, does not mean you share their same Kibbe ID. 

Soft Gamine Physical Profile 

The Soft Gamine (or SG) will have the following characteristics: 

Soft Gamines are the combination of yin/yang with a dash of extra yin.  They have very rounded body shapes and features on a delicately angular frame.  Their essence (which we will dive into more later) is playful, high-spirited, and full of charisma.  Remember, this is a holistic view, so don’t get too hung up on any one trait not matching up. 

Height:  Typically under 5 ft 5 inches and usually petite in frame 

Soft Gamine Bone Structure: 

• Delicate and small with a slightly angular and sometimes slightly broad look 
• Can have angular edges, especially in the shoulder area 
• Small hands and feet (can be wider or fleshy) 
• Can have delicately broad facial features including their nose, cheekbones, and jawline, and this can be seen as somewhat angular at times) 
• Arms and legs are often shorter (in proportion to height) 

Soft Gamine Body Type 

• Body tends towards fleshiness with a soft, curvy shape 
• Curved bustline and hips with some natural definition at the waist 
• Fleshy arms and legs (sometimes), and can have a soft/fleshy hip and thigh area

Soft Gamine Facial Features 

• Doll-like features include full lips, fleshy or round cheeks, and large saucer eyes ( I feel like these are the descriptions that make people think SGs are innately womanly and more girlish, but that is absolutely not true!)
• Face shape tends to be rounded but can have a bit of sharpness in the jawline

A Soft Gamine will not be: 

• Be tall 
• Have an extremely straight body type 
• Have a large or broad bone structure 
• Have large hands and feet 
• Have an overly sharp bone structure 
• Have moderate or symmetrical body type, bone structure, or facial features 

Soft Gamine Weight Gain Patterns

I have a full guide on all the ID’s weight gain patterns and my own opinion on some mid-to plus size examples of each, here. 

It first needs to be clarified that weight gain will NOT change your ID.  That is partially why Kibbe doesn’t overly focus on the waist as a body trait factor.  Because naturally, over many years, your waist will change shape (oftentimes), but your bone structure and how flesh lays on top, will not. However, he did try to clarify where each ID might gain weight most easily.  This is one element of an ID, and cannot be used as a sole determining factor. 

When Soft Gamines gain weight they tend to get very rounded, and the weight will mainly show up in the bust and hip area.  Their naturally fleshy arms and thighs may look softer, and their face may get fleshier. 

When SGs gain weight they tend to feel “overweight” even when they are not.  This is because they already have a lot of rounded features and a rounded body with short limbs, so any fluctuation in weight tends to enhance this roundness. 

I know it can get confusing with the soft types so maybe this photo might clear up some of the distinctions between a mid-size Soft Classic, Soft Gamine, and Soft Natural.

Soft Gamine Coloring 

Any ID (warm or cool toned) can be a Soft Gamine, but they often have a delicate skin tone that has a luminous quality.  

David Kibbe, if you see him in person, has his own coloring model based on seasonal color analysis.  I find leaning on your own seasonal color palette, which you can learn about here, to be the most effective strategy.  (Remember, these are just tools to use in your own Style toolbox, they are not boxes you need to fit into!). 

So, is Soft Gamine your ID?

Understanding Kibbe terminology takes some time and understanding that you are not in fact “choosing” your ID, it already exists, you are simply trying to uncover it is a huge hurdle for most people on this journey. 

Any ID can be sexy, and ID can wear bodycon dresses, so don’t feel like you have to be a yin type to rock those. 

As mentioned Kibbe has generously given the Strictly Kibbe group a set of exercises to start evaluating how fabric works on your body and what your body lines are already saying (which is essentially the key to uncovering your ID). 

His advice is to generally look in the mirror and try to draw your lines (without bias)… Which, as someone who has done figure drawing extensively, I think you really need to have a creative eye to get the proportions right and lead to a proper understanding.  It is great though, to look in the mirror and really start to look at your body more objectively.

However, I also think taking a proper ID photo to be helpful as well (or video). In order to do this you must wear fitted pieces that don’t distort your body ( or underwear).  It must be a full-length photo (seeing your feet is important!), and it should be taken at chest level (so as to not distort your vertical line).  I suggest using a tripod, but if that’s not possible make sure your camera is at a 90-degree angle from the floor. 

Now I don’t have perfect ID photos for verified SG’s Thandiwe Newton or Winona Ryder, but the below photo is for demonstrating the nuances between different IDS. 

So I identify as a Flamboyant Natural ( blunt yang, vertical + width), that I have a strong shoulder line and “kibbe width”.  This means I have an openness in my shoulders, back, and upper torso; it doesn’t mean I’m “big”.  I have a normal body curve but have no need to accommodate curve in the Kibbe sense.  If we look at my shoulders to knees, I have a long vertical.  At one point in the Kibbe refers to vertical line as “appearing tall”, however, I think the majority of readers misunderstood his point and so he adjusted it to be shoulders to knees.  ( I don’t think he meant people think you’re .5 in taller than you are; a lot of people think I am several inches taller than I actually am). 

Thandiwe and Winona both have a lot more roundness to their shape and look much smaller than I am. My frame is much more dominant than theirs, even though we are only a few inches apart in height.

Soft Gamine Style Lines 

David Kibbe describes the style essence of the Soft Gamine as “Spitfire Chic”.  Whether you’re like “yes, that’s me!” or you’re like “hmm, no”, doesn’t really matter.  

In my opinion, when David Kibbe first published Metamorphis there was no google and very limited style examples of each celebrity.  You couldn’t google “soft gamine style icons” and have 5000 hits.  So he had to try and describe what the vibe of each ID typically leans into.

But with years of experience, google, and now social media, our ability to see how this piece or that piece looks on a Soft Gamine has expanded our understanding of the style lines.  Soft Gamines will always have petite + curve. However, they can pretty much wear any piece of clothing as long as they keep their entire outfit in mind. 

If you’re a bit confused about this, I have a video showing this in action, here.

So when reading these style suggestions, focus less on the individual pieces and more on the WHY behind them being included.  These pieces should be a stepping stone to you creating your own style recipe that speaks to your own style preferences and authentic personal style. 

The Soft Gamine silhouette can be described as staccato, animated, and with clean curves.  It will often have strategic tailoring to accommodate your sharper elements but also accommodate your curves. 

Your shape will generally be rounded but because of your combo yin/yang, you need to honor your yang with crisp and formed lines.  The pieces are tailored close to your body, but you don’t need the soft flowing fabrics like the Romantic Family

Remember you are a gamine first and foremost, and your romantic undercurrent can be used in touches of your outfit, and in your makeup but not really for a full look. This means you need to remember your yang side and look for sharper edges at the shoulder, tapering at the cuff, the collar, and the waist. You can also look for tapering at the knee, and sewing elements like pleats, plackets, and lapels which will add a bit more sharpness/detail to your look. 

A well-defined waist will also be something you look for. You have small rounded shapes to your body and defining your waist will help you show off your natural line instead of hiding it and potentially making you look a bit “lumpier”. (my words, not Kibbes, and I hope no one takes offense to this).

This doesn’t mean you “can’t” pull off a looser silhouette just keep in mind your accommodations and how you might balance it out, or create a “vibe”. 

When Winona Ryder was younger she went “against” a lot of the Soft Gamine style lines… But in actuality, she often defined her waist and kept some pieces close to her body. So once you know your lines and can see your body without bias, it will be much easier to wear an outfit like the above more strategically. You’ll be able to properly see what is working, and what is not.

There are many ways to build an outfit, and you can check out my quick video overview of them,  here.

You are described as having sparkling charm, and vibrant energy. And Kibbe mentions people are entranced by your charm, your nature, and your ability to captivate with clever musings. And he stresses that you need to include those extra doses of yin to really embrace that magnetic yin energy you possess. 

How to Dress the Soft Gamine: Style Guide

Yin/Yang Balance: Combination of opposites (yin/yang) with extra yin 

Soft Gamine Shape  

When we are defining the word “shape” we are essentially looking at the garment or outfit’s overall outline, the full silhouette, and any focal points. 

And hopefully, as you continue to read this article you will begin to see a theme.  You are always going for “ crisp curves with sharp edges”.  You want the lines to be rounded in shape and smoothly formed, but with staccato edges.  

General Shapes can include circles, ovals, elliptical shapes, teardrops, and crisp clusters. 

NOTE: Throughout this article, you will see “avoid” categories. Please take these sections loosely and focus on your head-to-toe outfit over any one suggestion or detail.  Each Soft Gamine will vary ( Winona Ryder versus Betty White), and because of this each individual benefits from exploring their own outfit building balance and not a rigid acceptance of these suggestions. 

So,  soft gamines- crisp curves with sharp edges. Tr’s are “round and soft”

Soft Gamine Line and Silhouette 

Kibbe refers to your lines as animated with a staccato silhouette.  If you’re confused about what he means by “staccato”, let’s break that down.  Staccato is typically a term in music that means “ a note of shorter duration” or “marked by short clear-cut playing or shining of tones or chords”. (source)

So how does that show up in clothes?  Well, we are looking for shortness and crispness in the lines of your clothing.  

Notice the edges of the garment, the structure of the garment, and the overall proportions of the garment.  They are staccato because they have shape, they are short, and they are generally smaller proportionally.

Soft Gamines also want to go with broken and curved lines. 

You have a petite accommodation which means you have a smaller build overall, and your body benefits from it being broken up.  Whereas dramatics and yang-leaning IDs benefit from embracing their long vertical line, the gamines are going to break up their shorter vertical line.  The Kibbe system is not like a traditional fruit body system where we are trying to “trick” people into thinking we are tall or hourglass in shape.  But rather it is about embracing what you have and showing that off.  So embrace your shorter vertical line by breaking up your silhouette.

You also have curve to consider, so sharply tailored outlines around your waist will help you keep your waist neatly defined.  

You also look great in small puffy shapes that have crisp edges or tapered hems.  (Because that creates crisp curve silhouettes). 

Avoid:  Generally avoid geometric shapes/silhouettes (those lean more Flamboyant Gamine), wide or unconstructed shapes (those lean more natural family), overly soft/flowing silhouettes (those are more romantic), and symmetrical/plain silhouettes (those lean classic). He also mentions you should avoid strong horizontal lines and severe straight lines.

When he says “avoid strong horizontal lines,” I think he means sharper breaks that disrupt your crisp curves or pieces that extend off from the body that might be overwhelming on your petite build. 

So you can’t just throw a big belt on something to make it an SG look. 

It will take some time to learn how these silhouettes work on your frame, so please don’t be super rigid about the suggestions. PLAY!

The above dress on Halle Berry does not really work even though it has some signature SG elements (crisp fabric, defined waist). The fabric is a bit too structured, and there are a lot of horizontal visual lines that are too large in scale for her petite frame (the wide/voluminous neckline, the sharper a-line skirt, and the heavy train).

Soft Gamine Fabric

Fabric and fabric weight, in my opinion, is a huge foundation element of Kibbe and I don’t think it gets talked about enough. 

Fabric weight is how you create a garment.  As someone who went to Parsons for Fashion Design and worked many years as a designer myself, the first thing you learn is to apply the right fabric for the silhouette and sewing techniques you want.  You can never just take a lightweight silk and turn it into a structured blazer (unless you’re adding a ton of structure, lining, interfacing, and padding into it, which even then will not make it look like the same blazer made in heavy wool).  

So remember the weight of your fabric and what it naturally does, is incredibly important. It’s not just about following your lines. 

For Soft Gamines, you want lighter-weight fabrics that are crisp, which allows them to be tailored into the crisp curves and staccato shapes we mentioned. 

If you go too soft with your fabrics (and don’t balance out your outfit to accommodate this swap), you will be leaning more toward the Romantic family fabrics and your combo yang will not be honored. 

Matte-finished fabrics look great on you, but you can also do slight sheens as well.  And the textures that work best are light and crisp and not heavy or bulky. 

We want a defined outline so if you opt for a more drape able fabric (like a jersey) make sure it is not too flimsy and it can have those extra tailored elements to define your crisp curve outline. 

And if you are going for knit fabrics keep them soft and fluffy. Knit fabrics will already have some body to them, so you can try an angora, mohair, or boucle.  You can try fitted knits, as long as they have some curvy shapes or outlines within them

Avoid: SGs don’t do well with heavyweight, bulky, or thick fabric.  Overly light or flimsy fabrics, overly clingy fabrics.  Rough or thick textures.  Or any bulky knits.

Soft Gamine Details and Necklines 

Remember how Kibbe described you- Spitfire Chic? Well, even if that doesn’t resonate, Soft Gamines are all about those animated details.  There is a liveliness and energy about your essence and trim can be a way you express this. 

We are attempting to harmonize and match our bodies with our clothes in the Kibbe System. Soft Gamines often have that added yang in their shoulder lines, so their detail should be crisp and slightly structured.  Shoulder gathers (to create crisp curves), tucks, and strategic shirring can also be great details for you to integrate. 

You can also add some intricate trim or applique touches as well, to honor your romantic undercurrent. 

For necklines, you want clean and crisp and preferably in a curved or rounded shape.  And you look especially fantastic in higher necklines or closed-neck necklines.  But if that’s not your thing, you can also try lower scoops or curved plunged necklines.  

Collars are a great place to add some crispness and can look fantastic on you.  But you don’t want your collars to be overly large or sharp.  So look for small, and tailored collars and you can even try contrasting collars or collars with trim.  Bonus points if the collar shape is also round. 

Other details you can try can be ornate trim topstitching, crisp cuffs with contrasting buttons or trim, small-sharp pleats, and pocket plackets. 

Hemlines are best when they are tapered or shorter.  But you can also try a tulip-shaped skirt or a gentle flare-out with a longer hemline.  Tapered at the knee is especially effective. 

Contrasting and colorful trim is going to be a staple to look out for (anywhere and everywhere!). 

Avoid: Minimal detail, sharply elongated detail, geometric detail, overly antique elements, and anything wide or unconstructed/natural. 

Soft Gamines Waist Emphasis 

Man, if I had a dollar for every post about Kibbe and waist emphasis, I feel like I could probably retire.  I probably don’t have to tell you all the misconceptions and confusion about waist and kibbe. It’s become a comical game of telephone.  

But, what is the truth? Well, I would refer to Kibbe directly if you want to hear his exact rules on what you should and shouldn’t do. But, in the meantime, here’s my own interpretation. 

As we discussed Soft Gamines (based on Kibbe’s exercise) seem to be able to have double curve, or curve.  And waists are not generally a factor in determining ID per se because they are only one element of the body and they can naturally change with weight fluctuations. So we are focusing on a holistic view and the general outline of your body. 

That being said, Soft Gamines have rounded shapes to their bodies.  And a curved line from bust to hips.

In the original text, Kibbe states that Soft Gamines’ “waist should always be sharply defined with waistbands, contrasting trim… [and that] a tapered and cinched in waist is a mainstay of your look. Gather at the waist are excellent if they are small and crisp (as opposed to deep and soft)” (Metamorphisis, page 147)

So if you have double curve as an SG, what would differentiate you from a Theatrical Romantic in terms of waist emphasis? 

Well, we did go over their general body shape differences, here.  But remember that SG is combo yin/yang with extra yin, and TRs are yin with a slight yang undercurrent.  So SG’s need to pay attention to their fabric weights, hem length, and the tailored elements to honor their curves, which includes the waist juncture. 

Soft Gamine Separates 

Separates for the Soft Gamine need to take an “ensemble” approach or really think about the head-to-toe. I know a lot of internet Kibbe gurus will tell you separates or adding a belt will help you achieve the gamine look, but that’s overly reductive. 

Mixing separates does work beautifully for the soft gamine, but they need to be combined in an artful way that harmonizes your yin/yang blend. 

Jackets for the Soft Gamine

We want your jackets to honor your curve and petite- so look for shorter hem jackets that are shapely tailored.  You can also look for that contrasting trim or excess detail. 

Now, we are going to mention the waist again…And for jackets, it is important to show your waist off. You have curves so an overly boxy or geometric-shaped jacket will hide that.

Opt for a jacket length that is cropped above your waist, or a peplum-style jacket that crisply defines your waist and then allows for a crisp curve around your lower half. 

You want to keep your jackets fitted, and depending on your own style preferences feel free to add those contrasting trim details, tapered cuffs, or shoulder details. 

Avoid:  Long jackets, severely straight jackets, jackets that completely hide the waist, unconstructed or boxy jackets, and traditional standard blazers.

Skirts for the Soft Gamine 

We are still going for “crisp curves” here so you can opt for skirts that are shorter, trim, and shapely.  Defined waistbands are key, and you can even look for small, crisp gathers along the waist. 

Since you have rounded shapes to your body, you won’t be rocking a straight-shaped skirt, and if you can instead try a tulip-shaped skirt. You want your skirt hems to end around the knee or just slightly below (but avoid going longer than that). 

Trumpet-shaped skirts are also an option if they taper gently in at the knee and have a slight flare. Don’t go the full length or midi length with these as that fabric can weigh down your small frame. 

If you have a more formal event and want a long skirt, opt for one that still shows your ankles or try an asymmetrical hemline. 

Avoid: Long or straight skirts, a-lines that lean a bit too traditional, wide or flowy styles, or large/full circle skirts

Octavia Spencer has a strong romantic essence so she can really pull off those lace textures, larger florals, and more fitted silhouettes. Don’t feel boxed in by these suggestions! They are just starting points, it’s up to you to tweak them for your style goals!

Pants for the Soft Gamine 

You want your pants to honor your rounded shapes, so look for pants that showcase your waist and that crispy shape around your hips.  You can also look for shaping details like soft pleaters or crispy gathers and tapered ankles.  

In terms of hemlines you want to go slightly shorter or cropped, and ideally show your ankle.  This honors your limb length and makes sure the clothes don’t overwhelm your small frame or visually weigh you down. 

You can also try skin-tight style pants. 

Jeans for the Soft Gamine

Kibbe doesn’t address jeans or casual wear much for any of the IDs. I’m not sure if that was a sign of the times (and the fact denim silhouettes and fabrics were pretty limited at that time), or if he generally doesn’t feel the casual evolution of style should be embraced. He definitely loves the glamour of old Hollywood.

But, in my opinion, casual wear and jeans are a staple of modern lifestyles.  And I’m a firm believer in dressing for your lifestyle, so that your clothes become a strength and an expression point, instead of a hindrance.  

I created a video all about Jeans for each Kibbe type, which you can watch here.

Skinny jeans, especially ones that are cropped above the ankle, look fantastic on you. But if that’s not your vibe just look for jeans that honor “crisp curves”. You want denim that isn’t too thick or heavy, and that has some tailoring/hip shape that accommodates your curves. 

Choosing jeans will be dependent on your outfit as well, so experiment!  

Tops for the Soft Gamine 

For tops, you still want “crisp curves” to be at play- and to honor your combo yin/yang. 

Blouses for Soft Gamine

Blouses can be softer and draped (they are softer than shirtings by design) but where you get your yang in this silhouette is the tapering/ultra-fitted cuffs, and necklines which allow for some crisper shapes in the garment. 

You can add some romantic undercurrent details like ruffles or lace, or you can lean more into your gamine essence with contrasting trim, or animated details. 

Silk blouses are great, but just make sure they have some tailored lines to them.  Light cotton, voiles, and a handkerchief or light linens can also work. 

Avoid: Severly tailored blouses, overly unconstructed shapes

Sweaters for the Soft Gamine

Fitted sweaters that define your waist and have tapered cuffs and necklines are excellent on you. You can accomplish that by looking for ribbed knit hems.  

If you want to lean into your romantic undercurrent you can look for applique, lace, or jewel details in small doses. 

You want sweaters that have a fluffiness or a soft pile and you want to avoid heavy, coarse, or rough knits.

Avoid: Long, oversized sweaters, rough knits, or overly clingy knits 

T-shirts for the Soft Gamine

Again, no official guidelines on t-shirts for the Soft Gamine ( or any ID) at this time.  However, I think you can take a lot of the overall guidelines and generally apply them to a t-shirt style.

You can opt for closely fitted crew necklines, or scoop necklines to keep your rounded shapes honored.  And for fabric weight, you could opt for a lighter cotton or stretch cotton that allows your curves to be embraced. 

Avoid: Heavy cotton or boxy cut shapes will probably not work seamlessly. 

Soft Gamine Dresses 

Dresses are great for the soft gamine, here are some style details to look out for:

• Shaped at the waist
• Crisp necklines, cuffs
• Intricate or animated details
• Sharper shoulder definition ( gathers or shirring possible)
• Skirts can be flared or tapered in but should not have a lot of volume
• Flouncy dresses can work if the fabric has some crispness 
• Blouson styles work if they have some tapered details 

Avoid: severely tailored dresses that feel overly sharp, wide or unconstructed dress shapes, “no waist” styles, overly clingy styles 

Soft Gamine Evening Wear 

A lot of the dress suggestion details will carry over to eveningwear, but we need to make them more formal.  Look for the following silhouettes:

• Bouffant ball gowns
• Fitted shapes with crisper fabrics and ornate trim
• Pouffy cocktail dresses (make sure they have some crispness- the pouf holds its shape)
• Bustier dresses ( I know people think bustiers are only for romantics, but that’s simply not true!)
• Fitted dinner suits that have some crisp flounces/curves (peplum for instance)
• Glitzy tops with fitted jackets or draped pants

Please not that this does not mean that Soft Gamines can’t be romantic or glamorous in the modern sense. They are not confined to only “youthful” or “girly” looks. Any ID can wear practically any piece of clothing with the right ensemble.

Soft Gamine Use of Color 

Colors can really elevate an outfit and make it harmonize with you and your “Look”.  I personally recommend leaning into your seasonal color palette more and evaluating your contrast level, than blindly following these color use suggestions. 

Kibbe, generally, recommends Soft Gamines use bright and sparkling colors. He suggests they have a multicolor palette full of vivid, rich, and intense shades mixed and matched.  And recommends the use of sharp color contrast (in color, not line). 

Avoid: monochrome, full-neutral outfits, and dark colors that don’t have vivid colors paired with them. 

But if you are a soft gamine with a more muted contrast you are going to have to find your own balance of mixing colors and what harmonizes with you, and doesn’t overpower you.  

Soft Gamine Prints 

Prints can exude a specific essence, vibe, or energy so it is important to consider the following suggestions but also incorporate your personal taste into this choice. 

Prints generally harmonize well with Soft Gamines, and they can embrace a lot of lively and animated prints with bright colors and high color contrast. 

The shapes that make up the prints should ideally be curved and intricate, crisp and animated (not blended or watercolor-esque).  

In terms of size, you don’t want overly large-scale prints and should aim for smaller or moderate-size prints. 

Avoid: overly geometric or sharp prints, symmetrical prints, abstract or oversized prints, and watercolor prints that are blended

Soft Gamine Accessories 

If you’ve caught on to the “crisp curves” theme, you may be thinking how the heck do I translate that to accessories… Well, you are still going to do crisp and small-scale but here is where touches of your romantic undercurrent can come into play easily. 

Shoes

• Visually lightweight (not chunky/heavy/big), and delicate
• Tapered toe and heel 
• Intricate trim
• Bare or strappy can work 
• Open-toes or slingbacks
• Feminine flats 
• Lighter/brighter colors 

Avoid: overly angular styles, chunky styles, overly plain/classic/simple shoes 

I will note that if you do want to add any “non-SG” vibe elements to your outfits your shoes are usually a good place to experiment.  Visually when people take in an outfit they go from top to bottom. So whereas your makeup and hair being harmonious are more obvious, the shoes can be a little bit easier to “break the rules” and not feel disharmonious in my opinion. 

Bags

• Small and rounded in shape 
• Delicate straps 
• Intricate trim details 
• Metallic or beaded bags for evening (or antique shapes) 
• Ultraslim larger bags in softer leathers 

Avoid: Oversized, unconstructed bags, sharp/geometric bags, bulky bags

Remember to evaluate your own balance and needs. You will rarely find the perfect SG outfit and the exact SG bag without having to sacrifice your own personal preferences.  If your handbag has thicker straps, that’s fine! Just take a holistic approach to balance out your look. 

Belts

• Narrow to Moderate 
• Crisply shaped/material
• Curved or intricate buckles 
• Contrasting colors can work 
• Elegant materials

Avoid: Wide belts, overly stiff belts 

Jewelry 

Jewelry really helps you complete your look and honor your romantic undercurrent.  It adds sophistication to your look! 

• Rounded and crisp (duh!)
• Circles, swirls, ovals, clusters, teardrops 
• Animated pieces (that are curved in shape) 
• Brightly colored pieces 
• Bigger/brighter beads
• Crisp earrings that remain on or close to the ear (not large-scale drop-down earrings)
• Smaller bangles 
• Unusual pins or broaches

Soft Gamine Hair 

Hair and makeup are really two elements you want to keep more harmonious because they are visually taken in at the same time.  

Your hair should generally be soft and a bit tousled and can have layering elements to create some rounded shapes. 

In terms of what type of layering you should lean into, you are not (generally) doing the lioness layering like the Flamboyant Naturals. Your layers have feathering on top with a more cropped cut underneath.  

You can also try asymmetrical cuts or a feathery fringe around your face.  

He generally recommends the length to be shorter and that longer hair will “drag you down”. But I think long hair can work for some Soft Gamines (like Reese Witherspoon!).

Avoid: Severe cuts, blunt cuts, overly sleek or ornate hair, and lioness mane cuts  

Soft Gamine Makeup 

Makeup can really help you complete your look and make your outfit vibe more intentional.  

David Kibbe suggests bright and colorful makeup and says adds some elegance and a touch of glamour to your look. 

He recommends a crisp and vivid face to add that pizzazz to your full ensemble.  Things like bright eye colors, ultra-rosy cheeks, and very glossy lips are things you could try implementing. 

You can also add a bit of sparkle for evening looks. 

In terms of technique you want to harmonize, that means the application should be rounded and blended.  You want to avoid harsh contours that will not jive with the softness of your face.  You can’t slim (nor should you want to!) your full cheeks. 

Generally avoid heavy contouring, smokey eyes, “no-makeup makeup”,  too pale lips, or pastel colors. 

Again, you need to remember these suggestions were from the 1980’s so some modernization will probably need to happen. Ultimately I say embrace the lines and highlights of your face, and keep your shapes rounded. 

Soft Gamine Outfit Examples 

Your outfits should not be ruled by Kibbe’s suggestions (he would agree with this, I think!).  They should take into consideration your style preferences, your unique style recipe, your lifestyle needs, and where you are going in that outfit. 

But if you want to see how I would play with the Soft Gamine style recommendations, here are a few outfits to potentially use as inspiration. 

Soft Gamine + Kitchener Essences 

You may already be familiar with John Kitchener’s Style Essences of Personal Style Consultants if you’ve been deep diving into Kibbe. 

You can get an overview of them, here. 

Now, Kibbe and Kitchener technically BOTH use style essences. David Kibbe created an image identity system where you get assigned 1 ID (in this case Soft Gamine) and that basically is your style essence blend (gamine + romantic). 

Now, in Kitchener’s system, you can be a blend of pretty much any of the style essence options and be more than one or two essences. There are celebrities that both David Kibbe and John Kitchener have typed who have dramatically different essence blends.  And the Kitchener system does put more emphasis on the face. ( he also has the ingenue and angelic essence options!)

So if you’re exploring the Soft Gamine and your face just doesn’t seem to match, or you feel like something is missing, you could consider exploring your Kitchener essence blend as well. 

I have extreme deep dives on all the style essences, here.  I would suggest watching the gamine, and the romantic essence first. 

And here are some outfit examples of Soft Gamines with varying essence options:

Shopping for the Soft Gamine 

If you’re attempting to round out your wardrobe or add some new SG-friendly pieces, let’s go over some questions to ask yourself to make sure the garment is a good fit.

1. Is the fabric lighter yet able to be crisply tailored? (Yes)
2. Are there curved shapes to the silhouette? (Yes)
3. Does the garment have animated or elements of intricate trim? ( Yes. We don’t want too “plain”/simple)
4. Does the garment crisply define your waist? ( Yes.) 
5. Is there anything overly long, geometric, or severe about the pieces that might overwhelm your petite + curve? 
6. Is there anything overly soft or draped with no structure?  You want crisp curves!
7. Is there some tailoring, crispness, or tapering to honor the yang part of your blend? 
8. Do you like the garment? Does it work for YOUR authentic style?  These guidelines are pointless if they create outfits you don’t resonate with.  Your clothes are you, and they express that to the world, so always take your preferences and opinions into consideration. 

I hope this guide has helped you embrace your beautiful Soft Gamine lines, and helped you understand that you can be sexy and womanly!

Soft Gamines are magnetic, energetic, and charming!  Every ID has its unique beauty, and the whole point of this is to embrace your best self. 

Now, go be Spitfire Chic! 

Be sure to pin this rather EPIC Soft Gamine Style Guide (if I do say so myself) 😉