The Ultimate Guide: How to Build A Wardrobe From Scratch

I bet I know how you feel about your wardrobe.

It’s like when you’re cooking a new recipe and you make what you think is a small mistake, but somehow that mistake turns into another mistake and another. And by the time it is done, it looks nothing like your Pinterest-worthy recipe goals.

Your wardrobe is probably a hot mess.  Full of previous attempts at being a different person, jumping on fads that you never fully fleshed out, or just a collection of hodgepodge pieces you don’t know how to pair together.

So whether you need a wardrobe refresh because you just can’t walk back from those mistakes, your body has changed, or lifestyle evolutions, I am going to walk you through how to build a wardrobe from scratch.

I’m going to warn you that it will not be an overnight process. And if you try to make it an overnight process you will undoubtedly end up with an even bigger mess than what you started with.

Now, if you’ve read my blog before you know I LOVE to try new fashion trends, but I also love having a functional closet which is why each season I also narrow my closet down and create seasonal capsule wardrobes.  And this post will be all about building a sustainable foundation for your closet and wardrobe that you can expand from. And from there, within each season, you can hone your wardrobe for a streamlined closet without sacrificing style.

 We may earn a commission from you clicking a link below. And as an amazon associate, we earn on qualifying purchases. Full affiliate policy, here.

How long will it take to build my wardrobe from scratch?

This partially depends on your budget and dedication to completing this journey.  But I say it can easily be done over 6 months if you spend wisely and slowly build your wardrobe foundation. But most likely, it will take a year, as it is easiest to shop for items when you are within that season and can appropriately access your wardrobes must-have pieces. 

It is important to buy quality items and items that will last.  So we will be focusing on more classic iterations and wardrobe staples for the sake of this post.  When you have a strong closet foundation you can implement trends and stylish accessories very easily.

What should I not do when building a wardrobe from scratch?

1. Don’t impulse buy

It is really easy to see something on an influencer, or in a store window and think “Oh I NEED that”.  Resist the temptation.  This is the equivalent of a hot and heavy crush and it WILL pass. 

via GIPHY

2. Avoid sale shopping

This ties into the rule above, but shopping sales are not really your best friend.  And you’re probably wondering what I have against saving money… But, that’s not it. The problem with shopping sales (especially big ones like Black Friday or Amazon Prime Day or god forbid the Net-a-porter annual event) is that your logic goes out the window.  I can’t tell you how many times I’ve bought something simply because it was on sale.  When we are confronted with a good price, our brain somehow finds a way to justify that we like that item, or even need that item.

It usually leads to impulse purchases.  The only time you can shop a sale is when you already have a tried and tested item.  So if you have a favorite cashmere sweater and it has treated you well and continues to be a good staple, and a new colorway is on sale- then, you can go for it.

But for actual wardrobe building, avoid sales.

3. Oversaturating yourself with inspiration

It is great to have a Pinterest board or photo album of inspiration images.  But constantly obsessing over an influencer’s vast closet and seemingly endless budget for expensive items, will not help you build a wardrobe that is right for you.

Part of the reason you are reading this post is that you go into your closet and think “I have nothing to wear” or “Nothing looks good on me!”.  We want to avoid feeling that despair, and we want to instead find our own voice through style. 

Stop comparing yourself to others, and find your unique way of speaking to the world through fashion and you will find so much more contentment and happiness in life.  Take it from me, I’ve been there. 

4. Influencer Overload

Begin to take note of when you are tempted to buy and unfollow those accounts temporarily. It’s wonderful to surround yourself with beautiful stimuli and influencers do a great job at providing this.

But, if you’re constantly swiping up to shop and being overly influenced by other’s styles you will never find that liberating and empowering authentic style expression.

It is the job of an influencer to present you with beautiful images and to show you a piece in the absolute best and romanticized fashion. So their job is visuals. Your goal is to express yourself authentically and feel good in the clothes you wear. Don’t spend money on pieces that don’t help you achieve that. That floor-length ball gown looks fantastic in the perfectly designed victorian home, and took 4 hours to shoot. Unless that is also your lifestyle, don’t let influencers dictate your style.

They can be inspiration when you have a firm grasp on your wardrobe and personal style. During these months of building, put them on mute.

5. Trying to make everything “perfect” right away.

Check out my podcast episode on style perfectionism and why a slower approach is the way to go.

we may earn a commission from you clicking a link in this post, at no additional cost to you, full affiliate policy. 

Wardrobe Building 101

Before you dive into thinking nothing in your closet is salvageable, you need to get a firmer understanding of what you have and what you might need. “Building a wardrobe from scratch” feels like it’s a complete overhaul, but I prefer to consider it a focused upgrade.

I always recommend people take daily outfit photos. You may throw together an outfit and think it looks fine until you have the hindsight to see how it fits or moves on you. This isn’t to make you feel bad, but rather to collect data that you can start applying to future purchases and to have a style that you truly feel wonderful expressing.

Next you’ll want to “speed date” the clothes you do have. What clothes do you have that you might want to keep? How could they be re-styled to fit your current style goals? How might you mix and match it or layer it differently? This is all about quick try-ons that give you some data to go off of. And you may begin to find certain silhouettes or fabric weights are “easy yes” pieces. On the flip side, you may find certain colors or cuts are “easy no” pieces.

Try my in-depth closet audit system if you find that you have a bigger closet to tackle.

You should also consider what goes in your “style toolbox” which is essentially your go-to set of style parameters or style systems. This includes taking daily outfit photos and determining what types of clothes you actually enjoy wearing.

This allows you to find the common threads between pieces you love the look of and express your dream style, and the pieces you enjoy wearing.

How do I start building my chic wardrobe?

Follow these steps to build a chic wardrobe. 

1. Stop rushing the Process.  Finding clothes that make you FEEL good and express yourself is not as easy as buying a nice black sweater on sale. 

Instead, make sure any item you buy passes these questions with flying colors: 

• Is it a quality item? Will it last?
• Will it be a good building block for my wardrobe? (the checklist at the end of this post will help you confirm this)
• Does it “feel” like me?  Finding staples that are a good representation of your style and voice is key to having a successful wardrobe.
• Can I wear it more than once?
• Is it comfortable?

2.  Hone your Personal style

Dressing for who you are and who you want to be is a huge leap in your fashion journey.  Understanding that your fashion is one of your strongest voices and the easiest way to influence people’s impression of you, is your first mindset shift.

The first thing you should do is to figure out how to define your personal style. I have a free personal style quiz, here (no email sign-up required!). And a step-by-step guide on defining your unique style, here.

I truly believe an authentic personal style expression comes with time and is a map of our interests and points of view. I’ve developed a process to hone this down by using “Personal Style Mapping”. It’s a deep dive into authentic style and you can find the worksheets and video below.

3. Buy the right sizes

You’re probably thinking, isn’t that a given?  But, come on… How many times have you bought a pair of jeans (probably on sale) at the size you wish you were or used to be… You justify it to yourself that it will be good motivation for you to go to the gym. 

But the reality is, that wearing clothes that don’t fit is just depressing and will make you more hesitant to find joy in your closet and style.

Instead, you will be confronted with the depressing fact that those jeans still don’t fit and you’ll see that reminder every time you walk into your closet.

Numbers on jeans and shirts are exactly that, meaningless numbers. Get over your uncomfortable relationship with sizing and you will find so much more joy in your clothes. Whether you are a size zero or a size 16, it won’t make a difference if you don’t dress well.

And if you are focusing on losing weight, toning your body, or even gaining muscle, this rule still applies.  Just buy your wardrobe staples at a slower pace and adjust as you go.

If you’re still in the midst of a huge body change, or workout journey you can also opt for accessories and shoes for now. Building up these accessories is fundamental to a wardrobe and can be a great starting point.

Now, let’s get into the exact items you need to build your wardrobe

We will systematically go through each category of your closet and I will list the wardrobe staples that will be the best investment.  Be sure to pin the images so you can refer back to them when you are shopping.  I will also give you a wardrobe checklist you can print/download for reference when you are shopping.

And, if you’re interested in capsule wardrobes- you can find the ones I’ve developed here. It’s a great place to start to streamline and organize your growing wardrobe.

Start with a color palette

Having a base set of colors that you are drawn to is the start of honing your perfect wardrobe. Start narrowing down colors you are naturally drawn to and wear frequently. The above image is a guide if you are stuck.  Now, this doesn’t mean that if neon yellow doesn’t make it into your color palette you can never, ever wear it.  Rather, this is a jumping-off point.

Most people will have a color palette that has a set of base neutrals, one or two pop colors, and a favorite “neutral” print. 

However, I suggest you scroll through your Instagram and peruse your closet to find what you have naturally gravitated to over the years.

Easy Neutral colors to focus on:  White, Black, Navy, Gray, and Tan

Pop colors to try:  Red, Pink, or Blue (usually a brighter saturation)

Easy neutral prints to try: Stripes, Plaids, and leopard print.

Here’s a breakdown to make it simpler:

Whether you want to streamline your closet with a capsule wardrobe or not, the above color-coordinating chart will help you get started.

This video will also help you determine your unique color palette and can be used to tweak your color palette with each season.

Ok, now do I need to worry about what season I am in or what colors look best with my skin tone?

Obviously, skin tone and undertones are important when choosing the right shade and color palette.

But it should be a general guideline and not hard and fast rules. If you’d like to determine your season, check out this post for some color palette guidelines.

This process is not about eliminating colors you shouldn’t wear, but rather finding the correct shade or tint of the color that will make you glow.

How do I figure out what colors I can wear then?

You try them on.  It may sound simple but you have been dressing for decades at this point and probably already gravitate towards certain colors. 

But, if you’re still unsure of how to find “your” shades of each color try these tips:

• Get honest feedback.  We all have one friend (usually a Sagittarius or Scorpio) who will be honest with us.  They will tell you that neon pink is not doing you any favors or that you look like Wednesday Addams with all that black.  Take the feedback and evaluate it on your own terms.  But, hearing what a trusted friend has to say is helpful.
• Take pictures and evaluate your past fashion choices.  The easiest way I can see if a color works for me is not just trying it on and looking in the mirror. That is only the first step.  By that point, I usually can lean towards a yes or no but a picture or video usually confirms it for me.  Something about being able to see the outfit back and evaluate the strengths and weaknesses gives one an outside/hindsight perspective. So try the outfit on, take a video and picture, and then an hour later watch them back. You’ll be surprised at how quickly you can confirm whether or not each color or silhouette is a match.  Be sure you have good lighting and a full-length mirror for this.
• Evaluate your best looks, according to you.  Ultimately this is about YOUR style and what you want to express to your world.  So stop listening to any expert who says you can’t wear purple or you can’t wear gold jewelry. Go into your closet and see which pieces bring you the fondest memories and the best feelings.  Evaluate which items you felt best in, and try to find the common thread.  This can help you narrow down colors you gravitate towards and it can also help you find the silhouettes that you feel your best in.

Here is a complete guide on deciding wardrobe color palettes, if you want to further expand on this part of your closet.

And here is my guide for DIY-ing your seasonal color palette at home.

Determining your own best neutrals and how you use color can be a truly pivotal change in your wardrobe strategy. When I determined I was cool toned it became easy to shop and eliminate any warm or bright colors. Similarly, it was easier to look at my closet and purge pieces that I knew didn’t suit me.

So all of this advice is to help get your ideas started for building a wardrobe, but you must learn to customize it for your coloring, aesthetic goals, pov, and lifestyle.

Here are all the pieces you should invest in (slowly) when building a wardrobe from scratch:

Here are all the tops you need:

Fitted Tee: White Tee, Black Tee, Gray Tee

You’ll want some versatility with your t-shirts as they are a great building block for outfits.  I find crew necks the most versatile. But the weight of fabric and style will depend on your body type or climate.

Crew Neck Sweater

The crew neck sweater is an easy fashion staple that is perfect for transitional weather and is pretty much fool-proof for outfit building.

Turtleneck

I used to think turtlenecks were outdated but boy was I wrong. The turtleneck is a classic and chic item that can be worn on its own or as a layering piece.

Denim or Chambray Shirt

A denim shirt is an easy win.  And if you want to take it a step further, try a double denim look. [ how to rock double denim, it’s not hard!]

White Button-up Shirt

Depending on your style you can decide what fit you like. I’ve found I veer more towards Parisian, or oversized shirts and a classic men’s button-down is my favorite. [ how to wear menswear pieces as a woman] 

Oversized Tee

Having one slightly oversized tee is a building block that will help you out immensely.  We all love Parisian fashion and one of their wardrobe staples is an oversized tee. I highly recommend you buy on and play around with styling it.  [14 ways to wear a white tee]

Dressed-Up Top

Here’s a category that you can easily express your personal style with. It’s great to have an easy option for going out or grabbing when you want to feel more put-together. If you’re not sure what type of top this might be, try starting with a style statement exploration, here.

Blouse

A chic blouse in your preferred style is essential.  You can find a boxier silhouette blouse if an ultra-feminine blouse is outside your style wheelhouse. 

TIP: Pay attention to the style lines and the weight of the fabric. Something that has a lot of seaming may fit your body shape more than something with a relaxed cut. Similarly, you may find that heavier-weight fabrics fall on your body better than very light and clingy materials. Taking those daily outfit photos and noting what is working will be illuminating for your wardrobe building!

Here are the bottoms you need:

Disclaimer: Jeans are a very personal experience for most people.  You probably have strong opinions on what jeans you like and what jeans work for your body. Pay attention to that, and stick with what works for you.  This is just a general guideline and you can tweak it to fit your style if necessary.

Skinny Leg Black Jean: This is a classic pair of jeans.  It is a great foundational item because of its’ versatile style options. 

High waist “mom” jeans: I love a good mom-jean and the flexibility and ease it provides. I think having great high-rise jeans is essential.  It’s flattering and chic, and my favorite iteration of these jeans is in a medium wash.

Straight leg jeans: Straight leg jeans are trendy currently, but they are also able to withstand the test of time.  Investing in light-wash straight-leg jeans will undoubtedly serve you well over the years.

Silk skirt: A silk skirt is so chic and easy to wear.  It can be dressed up with a blouse or worn more casually with low-top sneakers and a tank top.  Versatility is key when building a wardrobe from scratch

Denim skirt: Depending on your style, you may want a mini skirt, a midi skirt, or even a full-length denim skirt. The denim skirt is a classic wardrobe staple, be sure to pick which length works for your style.

Wide leg trousers: These are instantly chic and elongate your legs.  They work with every body shape and are great for office and business casual settings.

Leggings: A great pair of leggings is an essential wardrobe building block.  Check out this post for unique ways to wear leggings as pants.

Outerwear You Need:

Trench Coat: This is a given, everyone looks good in a trench coat.

Wool Coat: A wool coat is a gift that just keeps giving. Find one you like and you’ll keep it forever.

Leather Jacket: a leather jacket is one of the most flexible layering pieces. It transitions across many styles and you can pick one that suits your needs.  The lighter the leather the more feminine it will be, so keep that in mind when purchasing.

Denim Jacket: I love a denim jacket and once you find one that fits your style it will be your go-to transitional jacket.

Blazer: Blazers are essential.  Remember that every body type will benefit from a different cut and material weight. Don’t be afraid to take your time trying on lots of different blazers and exploring which style suits you best.

Oversized blazer: The oversized blazer cut is especially popular right now, but french women have been rocking them for decades and looking ultra-chic. This cut may not work for everyone!

Cardigan: You need an easy layering piece and the cardigan is exactly that. 

Parka: Depending on your climate I believe the parka is an essential piece.  There are winter days that need that extra warmth and rain/snow/wind protection. Invest in a nice parka and it will last you years. And keep you warm.

Wardrobe Dress Essentials

The dress silhouette will depend largely on your personal shape and style.  So again, I suggest you go through your old photos and closet and see which dresses you just can’t live without.

If you are stuck, subscribe to my newsletter. That way you can email me directly and we can hash out any issues you might be having.

Slip Dress; Slip dresses are one of the easiest dresses to wear. They look expensive and can go from a daytime look with sneakers to an evening look with heels.        [ how to wear a slip dress in real life]

Knit Dress; A knit dress is a fashion staple that is perfect for transitional weather and transitioning through your day. The knit dress is extremely versatile.  If a fitted knit dress isn’t your style, you can also try a looser sweater dress.

The LBD:  Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn made the little black dress a thing, and it is not died down in popularity. Why? Because it’s classic and stands the test of time.  Find a black dress that makes you feel amazing and it will serve you well for years to come.

A-line dress:  Everyone needs a good a-line dress in their closet.  It’s a staple in the summertime. A-line dresses look great in a floral pattern as well. 

Shirt dress;  A good shirt dress is an excellent layering piece and great for business casual settings.  It’s put together, yet stylish.

Shoes you need in your Wardrobe

A classic pair of heeled boots: Usually ankle height works best. Make sure the heel is comfortable for you to walk in.

A neutral pump: While this is not my personal favorite shoe, it is a necessary staple and it will get a lot of wear over the years.

Classic sneaker; A great classic sneaker will get you far in your style journey. 

Classic flat:  Depending on your personal preference you may want a pointy toe or something more similar to a ballet flat. But this is a must-have for your day-to-day outfit styling.

Knee-high boots:  Knee-high boots are very fashionable and add extra oomph to your outfit.

simple strap sandal: You need a go-to sandal for the summer months. I suggest opting for a comfortable, simple strap sandal to be your baseline for the coming years. You can always add trendier options in there with time, but this sandal is a good foundational piece.

optional:

Combat boots: Depending on your style you may shudder at the thought of this but combat boots have served me well over the years and they are actually a very classic shoe.

Essential Wardrobe Accessories

I personally think accessories are the easiest to play around with and stylize an outfit.  So even if you are trend averse, you can still find ways to incorporate trendy pieces and heighten your outfit a bit.

That being said, it is good to have a couple of necessary accessories that work with practically any outfit, so be sure to collect these items over time.

A classic watch:  A simple watch is functional and chic. Pick a size and tone that you will wear often and you’ll keep it forever.

A classic pair of sunglasses: Choose a staple pair of sunglasses that fit your face well.  Try not to go too big or too small with the overall shape.  I love black classic ray bans.  They are medium size, work with my face (and most face shapes), and never go out of style. 

A pair of small hoops:  A classic pair of hoops is essential in any fashion wardrobe.  This is my go-to pair. 

I have a lot of ear piercings and currently love the Maria Tash look for a fashionable twist.  Check out this post for how to get this look for less. 

Leather tote:  A durable, chic tote for all your things is a must. Invest in a nice leather item and it will wear beautifully. 

Wool Scarf:  Adding a scarf in the wintertime is not only a great way to stay warm, but it also adds a lot to your outfit style-wise.  I love an extra-long scarf so that I can really build some volume.  But any good quality wool scarf will work.

Crossbody bag:  Crossbody bags are always stylish and a great option for when you don’t need as much space as your leather tote provides.  Opt for a neutral color and simple shape and you will keep it for years.

Here are a few classic stores to keep in mind when building a chic wardrobe:

Gap:  It’s been around for this long, and their classic versions of each item will last a long time.

Jcrew: Great for simple silhouettes and blouses/shirts/tops especially.

Zara: Great for blazers and coats at affordable prices.  It may not last as long, however.

Madewell: Fantastic jeans and great quality

Uniqlo:  The ultimate place to buy basic t-shirts and casual staples

Topshop:  Has a great selection of jean styles that hold up really well

& Other Stories: My favorite place to buy blazers, besides vintage shopping

Reformation:  Fantastic dresses and jumpsuits

Naadam:  Amazing for cashmere sweaters and sets

Veronica Beard: perfect for classic blazers

Redone: Has great classic-style jeans and denim pieces. 

All Saints: For-all-things leather jackets and has some great wool coats as well

Ok, that was a lot of information. Here is an easy checklist for you to save and keep track of all your fashion staples as you SLOWLY collect them.

Remember that this is not a race.  Collect items you love and it will serve your closet well for years to come. 

P.S. Pin this for reference because there is A LOT Of information in this post